Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
